As soon as the babies are 24 hours old it may be possible to inspect them. Remove the female from the hutch when she is in the run, not when she is in the nest, and give her something to occupy her mind, such as a juicy carrot, while you are looking at the youngsters. Litters usually average about 5 in number, but can range from 1 to 12. Large litters should preferably be thinned out by fostering some of them to another doe with a smaller litter. More than six young is a great strain for a doe to rear and it would be better to humanely destroy the weaker ones rather than allow her to keep too many.
Baby rabbits at birth are devoid of fur, have their eyes tightly closed, and have extremely short ears. The markings of bicolored rabbits can clearly be seen, even when they are naked, and will give you a good indication of how they are going to turn out. Once you have done the initial
inspection, the doe should be left in peace to rear her litter. She will know exactly what to do, feeding them at regular intervals from her own milk supply, and keeping the nest clean, dry and snug. She will remove soiled material from the nest, so ensure that there is always a replacement
supply available.
The young will grow rapidly, soon developing fur, and by about the tenth day the eyes will open. Within three weeks the babies should be running around the hutch floor, but returning to the nest for feeding. They will soon start to take solid food and by six or seven weeks of age they should have virtually stopped suckling the doe and be taking adequate solid food. As soon as this happens the doe can be removed to another hutch, allowing the litter to spend a few more days in familiar surroundings, before moving them to a stock hutch or selling them.
The doe should be inspected for signs of ill-health, given an adequate diet, and allowed to rest for at least three weeks before being allowed to remate. Rabbits are capable of breeding at least ten times per annum, but for the best results, it is advisable to limit them to three litters. The
average breeding life of an adult doe is about three years and the overall life span in domestic rabbits is about five or six years, but records of twelve years or more are not unknown.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Monday, March 2, 2009
Pregnancy
The doe, which is hopefully pregnant, should be placed on her own in a breeding hutch and provided with adequate bedding. The period of gestation is usually about 31 days, but may range in some cases between 26 and 35. It is not easy to tell whether a doe is truly pregnant during the
early stages but signs that she is will include intensive nesting behavior — she will pluck fur from her own belly to use as a nest lining. About halfway through the gestation period, and thereafter, it may be possible to feel the developing embryos in the doe’s belly by gently squeezing. The doe
should be treated with care and respect during this period, and it is wise to leave the nest area undisturbed; the doe will keep it clean herself.
Shortly before the birth of her young (kindling) the doe may go off her food for a while but there is no cause for undue worry as this is perfectly natural. During this period, it is wise to give the female additional green-food and root vegetables. A little diluted milk given each day will also be
beneficial. As kindling time approaches, the female should be disturbed as little as possible and one should refrain from inspecting the young until about 24 hours after birth. Maternal instincts of the doe may act in a strange way if she and the litter are disturbed too much, and if you are not
careful she will kill the youngsters.
early stages but signs that she is will include intensive nesting behavior — she will pluck fur from her own belly to use as a nest lining. About halfway through the gestation period, and thereafter, it may be possible to feel the developing embryos in the doe’s belly by gently squeezing. The doe
should be treated with care and respect during this period, and it is wise to leave the nest area undisturbed; the doe will keep it clean herself.
Shortly before the birth of her young (kindling) the doe may go off her food for a while but there is no cause for undue worry as this is perfectly natural. During this period, it is wise to give the female additional green-food and root vegetables. A little diluted milk given each day will also be
beneficial. As kindling time approaches, the female should be disturbed as little as possible and one should refrain from inspecting the young until about 24 hours after birth. Maternal instincts of the doe may act in a strange way if she and the litter are disturbed too much, and if you are not
careful she will kill the youngsters.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Mating
Rabbits can be induced to mate at any time of the year simply by bringing the sexes together. However, it is best to limit breeding to the warmer months, particularly with animals kept in outdoor hutches. Rabbits are ready to breed from the age of four months onwards, but best results will be obtained if they are not allowed to do so until about nine months old. Sexes should be kept separate until mating is required, when the doe is introduced to the buck in his hutch (never the reverse as the doe may affack the buck). Mating can be very rapid, so do not worry if all seems to be over in a matter of seconds. As soon as mating has been accomplished, the doe should be returned to her hutch, preferably a breeding hutch of the type described earlier.
Only animals in the best of health should be mated and, of course, if you are breeding a particular variety of rabbit then the best marked specimens should be used, especially if you eventually intend to produce exhibition stock. There is always an element of chance in breeding good
examples and this adds to the excitement for most breeders. From experience, the breeder will soon learn which rabbits to mate in order to produce the best results.
Only animals in the best of health should be mated and, of course, if you are breeding a particular variety of rabbit then the best marked specimens should be used, especially if you eventually intend to produce exhibition stock. There is always an element of chance in breeding good
examples and this adds to the excitement for most breeders. From experience, the breeder will soon learn which rabbits to mate in order to produce the best results.
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Sexing
One of the first criteria in breeding rabbits, is to know how to tell which sex is which. If you know somebody already experienced in this discipline, it would be useful to have them show you how it is done. In adult rabbits, sexing is relatively easy as the male possesses a prominent scrotum. It is
more difficult in young rabbits as the scrotum takes some time to develop. For sexing young rabbits it is best to have two people, one to restrain the animal, laying it belly upwards on a flat surface, while the other manipulates the genitalia. With its hind legs spread open, pressure is
applied to either side of the vent. In the buck, the penis will come into view, this being larger than the corresponding organ in the female. In addition, the distance from the penis to the anus is greater in the male than that from the vagina to the anus in the female.
more difficult in young rabbits as the scrotum takes some time to develop. For sexing young rabbits it is best to have two people, one to restrain the animal, laying it belly upwards on a flat surface, while the other manipulates the genitalia. With its hind legs spread open, pressure is
applied to either side of the vent. In the buck, the penis will come into view, this being larger than the corresponding organ in the female. In addition, the distance from the penis to the anus is greater in the male than that from the vagina to the anus in the female.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Breeding
Most people who keep pet rabbits will, at some stage, have a desire to breed their animals. This is highly recommended as there is nothing more exciting than seeing one’s first lifter of baby rabbits. Rabbits are not difficult to breed, in fact if you place a buck and doe together, it will be impossible to stop them.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Health
A well kept rabbit will be surprisingly robust and resistant to disease, so always ensure that your pet gets the best possible care. On acquiring a rabbit, one should obviously start with a healthy specimen. Wherever it is obtained, be this from a pet shop or a breeder, a number of points should
be checked before the animal is purchased. Look at the general appearance of the rabbit. It should have a smooth, sleek coat completely covering the body and not showing any bald patches. The body should be firm and there should be no sharp protuberances of bone felt through the skin, particularly along the spine. The demeanor of the animal should be alert, bright-eyed and interested in its surroundings. Animals which sit hunched up in a corner should be avoided.
The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge and there should be no excessive breathing or panting noises. Look inside the ears for signs of inflammation or canker. If any signs of ill health are noted it is best to refuse purchase, rather than run the risk of losing the animal, or
even infecting existing stock.
Handling rabbits is something which one will have to learn at the outset; adult rabbits which are regularly handled are no problem and some seem to enjoy being cuddled and stroked. A rabbit should never be picked up by the ears, although there is no harm in gripping the ears
gently but firmly to restrain the animal, before sliding the other hand under the body and lifting. Once one has a good grip on the animal, it should preferably be held against one’s chest, in order to make it feel more secure. Some older rabbits, which have been infrequently handled,
may be a little excitable when picked up and should be dealt with by adults rather than children.
It would be naive to imagine that pet rabbits never get any diseases and it is wise to know what to do should one of these occur. One golden rule to remember is ‘when in doubt, consult a veterinarian’; it is better to get expert diagnosis and treatment rather than risk your pet’s life.
The following are some of the diseases and conditions which most frequently occur in pet rabbits, but, it is again stressed that well kept animals are unlikely to succumb.
Bloat: Caused by sudden changes in the food and Particularly from excessive greenfoods which cause strong attacks of wind’, swelling the belly to a drumlike tautness All greenfood should be removed and a little bicarbonate of soda should be given to the rabbit from a spoon Give
improves. only a little dry food and water for a few days until the condition
Canker: This is caused by an infection of parasitic mites inside the ear which appear as scabby patches The scabs should be Swabbed with a lukewarm antiseptic solution, dabbed dry, and treated with a miticidal dust or cream.
Coccidiosis: The symptoms of this disease are emaciation and scouring Fortunately it is rare in hygienically kept animals (it is Spread by infected droppings contaminating the food), but is a dangerous killer if it gets out of hand. Any suspected infection should immediately be reported to a veterinarian who will recommend the best action to take.
Constipation: This can be Caused by inadequate greenfood coupled with too much dryfood, such as grain. In severe cases the condition can be relieved with a dose of Castor oil.
Eye Infections: These usually appear as soft lumps under the skin and are caused by bacteria infecting a cut or wound, which may not have been noticed initially. Gently cutaway the fur around the abscess and bathe it with an antiseptic solution, before squeezing out the puss. Severe or persistant Cases should be referred to a vet.
Eye Infections: Inflammation of the eye, such as conjunctivitis may Occur but this can be quickly cured using antibiotic eye ointments
Fleas and Lice: These, and other external blood sucking parasites, can be quickly eradicated using the special insecticidal dusting Powders obtainable from your pet shop.
Heat Stroke: This may occur accidentally if the hutch is exposed to the sun during the hot weather Ensure that the hutch is shaded during such conditions Cool the rabbit immediately and place it in a shaded spot with adequate drinking water.
Mange: Caused by mites which burrow into the skin, mange may appear on any part of the body, causing hair loss and inflammation Infected areas should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution before treatment with a miticidal preparation
Mastitis: This is inflammation of the teats, sometimes experienced by does rearing a lifter. It may be relieved by gently massaging the teats several times a day until the inflammation subsides In severe cases the litter should be fostered to another doe, and the condition reported to your vet for advice.
Respiratory Infections: These range from the common cold, through snuffles, to the most serious, pneumonia. Respiratory infections are heralded by labored breathing and nasal discharge. The advice of a veterinarian should be obtained if such symptoms appear.
Ringworm: This is not caused by a worm but is a fungus disease of the skin which causes hair loss. Typical, roundish, raised lesions appear. These should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution, dried, and treated with a tincture of iodine which will soon clear up the disease.
Worm Infections: Rabbits occasionally develop an infestation of intestinal worms. Severe cases will cause anemia and loss of weight. Proprietary vermifuges should be used to the manufacturer’s instructions.
be checked before the animal is purchased. Look at the general appearance of the rabbit. It should have a smooth, sleek coat completely covering the body and not showing any bald patches. The body should be firm and there should be no sharp protuberances of bone felt through the skin, particularly along the spine. The demeanor of the animal should be alert, bright-eyed and interested in its surroundings. Animals which sit hunched up in a corner should be avoided.
The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge and there should be no excessive breathing or panting noises. Look inside the ears for signs of inflammation or canker. If any signs of ill health are noted it is best to refuse purchase, rather than run the risk of losing the animal, or
even infecting existing stock.
Handling rabbits is something which one will have to learn at the outset; adult rabbits which are regularly handled are no problem and some seem to enjoy being cuddled and stroked. A rabbit should never be picked up by the ears, although there is no harm in gripping the ears
gently but firmly to restrain the animal, before sliding the other hand under the body and lifting. Once one has a good grip on the animal, it should preferably be held against one’s chest, in order to make it feel more secure. Some older rabbits, which have been infrequently handled,
may be a little excitable when picked up and should be dealt with by adults rather than children.
It would be naive to imagine that pet rabbits never get any diseases and it is wise to know what to do should one of these occur. One golden rule to remember is ‘when in doubt, consult a veterinarian’; it is better to get expert diagnosis and treatment rather than risk your pet’s life.
The following are some of the diseases and conditions which most frequently occur in pet rabbits, but, it is again stressed that well kept animals are unlikely to succumb.
Bloat: Caused by sudden changes in the food and Particularly from excessive greenfoods which cause strong attacks of wind’, swelling the belly to a drumlike tautness All greenfood should be removed and a little bicarbonate of soda should be given to the rabbit from a spoon Give
improves. only a little dry food and water for a few days until the condition
Canker: This is caused by an infection of parasitic mites inside the ear which appear as scabby patches The scabs should be Swabbed with a lukewarm antiseptic solution, dabbed dry, and treated with a miticidal dust or cream.
Coccidiosis: The symptoms of this disease are emaciation and scouring Fortunately it is rare in hygienically kept animals (it is Spread by infected droppings contaminating the food), but is a dangerous killer if it gets out of hand. Any suspected infection should immediately be reported to a veterinarian who will recommend the best action to take.
Constipation: This can be Caused by inadequate greenfood coupled with too much dryfood, such as grain. In severe cases the condition can be relieved with a dose of Castor oil.
Eye Infections: These usually appear as soft lumps under the skin and are caused by bacteria infecting a cut or wound, which may not have been noticed initially. Gently cutaway the fur around the abscess and bathe it with an antiseptic solution, before squeezing out the puss. Severe or persistant Cases should be referred to a vet.
Eye Infections: Inflammation of the eye, such as conjunctivitis may Occur but this can be quickly cured using antibiotic eye ointments
Fleas and Lice: These, and other external blood sucking parasites, can be quickly eradicated using the special insecticidal dusting Powders obtainable from your pet shop.
Heat Stroke: This may occur accidentally if the hutch is exposed to the sun during the hot weather Ensure that the hutch is shaded during such conditions Cool the rabbit immediately and place it in a shaded spot with adequate drinking water.
Mange: Caused by mites which burrow into the skin, mange may appear on any part of the body, causing hair loss and inflammation Infected areas should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution before treatment with a miticidal preparation
Mastitis: This is inflammation of the teats, sometimes experienced by does rearing a lifter. It may be relieved by gently massaging the teats several times a day until the inflammation subsides In severe cases the litter should be fostered to another doe, and the condition reported to your vet for advice.
Respiratory Infections: These range from the common cold, through snuffles, to the most serious, pneumonia. Respiratory infections are heralded by labored breathing and nasal discharge. The advice of a veterinarian should be obtained if such symptoms appear.
Ringworm: This is not caused by a worm but is a fungus disease of the skin which causes hair loss. Typical, roundish, raised lesions appear. These should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution, dried, and treated with a tincture of iodine which will soon clear up the disease.
Worm Infections: Rabbits occasionally develop an infestation of intestinal worms. Severe cases will cause anemia and loss of weight. Proprietary vermifuges should be used to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
General Care
Domestic animals kept in relatively cramped surroundings require frequent, regular, and thorough cleaning of their quarters. Hygiene, a word which means the science of the prevention and control of disease, should be foremost in the rabbit keeper’s mind. A rabbitwhich receives a balanced diet, fresh water, and is kept in a clean, dry, draft proof hutch, will thrive, whereas one which is neglected will soon succumb to one of the nasty diseases which will be described later.
All rabbits should be handled and groomed as frequently as possible; a good brushing with a soft brush at least once per week will not only keep the fur in prime condition, but also give one the opportunity of inspecting
individual animals for signs of ill health. Rabbits kept in small hutches should also be given the opportunity of regular exercise, they may be allowed (under supervision of course) to run on the lawn or other grassy area, where they will also be able to supplement their diet with fresh grass.
Hutches should be cleaned out completely at least twice per week, and soiled bedding replenished daily. As rabbits are creatures of habit, they will usually urinate and pass droppings in one corner of the run only, so it is easy to clean this out with a small shovel or scraper, before adding fresh floor covering. Sawdust, wood shavings, or peat may be used as a floor covering; these are absorbent and will also act as an insulator to the floor of the hutch during cold weather. The usual floor covering should be added to the rabbit’s sleeping quarters, and a sizeable wad of straw should be added for bedding. The rabbit will soon chew this up and make a cozy nest.
It is useful to have regular days and times for cleaning. The rabbit(s) should be removed from the hutch and placed in a safe area and all bedding and floor covering should be removed. This may either be burnt, or placed on the compost heap (composted rabbit litter makes excellent manure). Equipment required for cleaning includes a scraper (a
wallpaper scraper is ideal) a small shovel, a stiff brush and a bucket in which to transport away the waste material. It is not necessary to wetscrub the hutch each time, but at intervals of say eight weeks it is
advisable to scrub the hutch thoroughly with a solution of household bleach (wear rubber gloves) which will kill off any bacteria or parasites lurking in the woodwork. The hutch should then be washed with clean water, and allowed to thoroughly dry out before the bedding and animals are replaced. As this may take some time, it is advisable to have
temporary, alternative accommodation available for your animals (cardboard cartons are useful).
During cleaning, the hutches should be inspected for damage caused by weathering, or by the rabbits themselves. Any cracks or holes should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent drafts and leaks. The areas around hutches or pens should be kept tidy and free of rubbish or other items which may provide food, refuge or nesting materials for vermin. Dry food should preferably be stored in metal bins, and hay andstraw should be stacked on raised pallets under cover.
All rabbits should be handled and groomed as frequently as possible; a good brushing with a soft brush at least once per week will not only keep the fur in prime condition, but also give one the opportunity of inspecting
individual animals for signs of ill health. Rabbits kept in small hutches should also be given the opportunity of regular exercise, they may be allowed (under supervision of course) to run on the lawn or other grassy area, where they will also be able to supplement their diet with fresh grass.
Hutches should be cleaned out completely at least twice per week, and soiled bedding replenished daily. As rabbits are creatures of habit, they will usually urinate and pass droppings in one corner of the run only, so it is easy to clean this out with a small shovel or scraper, before adding fresh floor covering. Sawdust, wood shavings, or peat may be used as a floor covering; these are absorbent and will also act as an insulator to the floor of the hutch during cold weather. The usual floor covering should be added to the rabbit’s sleeping quarters, and a sizeable wad of straw should be added for bedding. The rabbit will soon chew this up and make a cozy nest.
It is useful to have regular days and times for cleaning. The rabbit(s) should be removed from the hutch and placed in a safe area and all bedding and floor covering should be removed. This may either be burnt, or placed on the compost heap (composted rabbit litter makes excellent manure). Equipment required for cleaning includes a scraper (a
wallpaper scraper is ideal) a small shovel, a stiff brush and a bucket in which to transport away the waste material. It is not necessary to wetscrub the hutch each time, but at intervals of say eight weeks it is
advisable to scrub the hutch thoroughly with a solution of household bleach (wear rubber gloves) which will kill off any bacteria or parasites lurking in the woodwork. The hutch should then be washed with clean water, and allowed to thoroughly dry out before the bedding and animals are replaced. As this may take some time, it is advisable to have
temporary, alternative accommodation available for your animals (cardboard cartons are useful).
During cleaning, the hutches should be inspected for damage caused by weathering, or by the rabbits themselves. Any cracks or holes should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent drafts and leaks. The areas around hutches or pens should be kept tidy and free of rubbish or other items which may provide food, refuge or nesting materials for vermin. Dry food should preferably be stored in metal bins, and hay andstraw should be stacked on raised pallets under cover.
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