One of the first criteria in breeding rabbits, is to know how to tell which sex is which. If you know somebody already experienced in this discipline, it would be useful to have them show you how it is done. In adult rabbits, sexing is relatively easy as the male possesses a prominent scrotum. It is
more difficult in young rabbits as the scrotum takes some time to develop. For sexing young rabbits it is best to have two people, one to restrain the animal, laying it belly upwards on a flat surface, while the other manipulates the genitalia. With its hind legs spread open, pressure is
applied to either side of the vent. In the buck, the penis will come into view, this being larger than the corresponding organ in the female. In addition, the distance from the penis to the anus is greater in the male than that from the vagina to the anus in the female.
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Friday, February 27, 2009
Breeding
Most people who keep pet rabbits will, at some stage, have a desire to breed their animals. This is highly recommended as there is nothing more exciting than seeing one’s first lifter of baby rabbits. Rabbits are not difficult to breed, in fact if you place a buck and doe together, it will be impossible to stop them.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Health
A well kept rabbit will be surprisingly robust and resistant to disease, so always ensure that your pet gets the best possible care. On acquiring a rabbit, one should obviously start with a healthy specimen. Wherever it is obtained, be this from a pet shop or a breeder, a number of points should
be checked before the animal is purchased. Look at the general appearance of the rabbit. It should have a smooth, sleek coat completely covering the body and not showing any bald patches. The body should be firm and there should be no sharp protuberances of bone felt through the skin, particularly along the spine. The demeanor of the animal should be alert, bright-eyed and interested in its surroundings. Animals which sit hunched up in a corner should be avoided.
The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge and there should be no excessive breathing or panting noises. Look inside the ears for signs of inflammation or canker. If any signs of ill health are noted it is best to refuse purchase, rather than run the risk of losing the animal, or
even infecting existing stock.
Handling rabbits is something which one will have to learn at the outset; adult rabbits which are regularly handled are no problem and some seem to enjoy being cuddled and stroked. A rabbit should never be picked up by the ears, although there is no harm in gripping the ears
gently but firmly to restrain the animal, before sliding the other hand under the body and lifting. Once one has a good grip on the animal, it should preferably be held against one’s chest, in order to make it feel more secure. Some older rabbits, which have been infrequently handled,
may be a little excitable when picked up and should be dealt with by adults rather than children.
It would be naive to imagine that pet rabbits never get any diseases and it is wise to know what to do should one of these occur. One golden rule to remember is ‘when in doubt, consult a veterinarian’; it is better to get expert diagnosis and treatment rather than risk your pet’s life.
The following are some of the diseases and conditions which most frequently occur in pet rabbits, but, it is again stressed that well kept animals are unlikely to succumb.
Bloat: Caused by sudden changes in the food and Particularly from excessive greenfoods which cause strong attacks of wind’, swelling the belly to a drumlike tautness All greenfood should be removed and a little bicarbonate of soda should be given to the rabbit from a spoon Give
improves. only a little dry food and water for a few days until the condition
Canker: This is caused by an infection of parasitic mites inside the ear which appear as scabby patches The scabs should be Swabbed with a lukewarm antiseptic solution, dabbed dry, and treated with a miticidal dust or cream.
Coccidiosis: The symptoms of this disease are emaciation and scouring Fortunately it is rare in hygienically kept animals (it is Spread by infected droppings contaminating the food), but is a dangerous killer if it gets out of hand. Any suspected infection should immediately be reported to a veterinarian who will recommend the best action to take.
Constipation: This can be Caused by inadequate greenfood coupled with too much dryfood, such as grain. In severe cases the condition can be relieved with a dose of Castor oil.
Eye Infections: These usually appear as soft lumps under the skin and are caused by bacteria infecting a cut or wound, which may not have been noticed initially. Gently cutaway the fur around the abscess and bathe it with an antiseptic solution, before squeezing out the puss. Severe or persistant Cases should be referred to a vet.
Eye Infections: Inflammation of the eye, such as conjunctivitis may Occur but this can be quickly cured using antibiotic eye ointments
Fleas and Lice: These, and other external blood sucking parasites, can be quickly eradicated using the special insecticidal dusting Powders obtainable from your pet shop.
Heat Stroke: This may occur accidentally if the hutch is exposed to the sun during the hot weather Ensure that the hutch is shaded during such conditions Cool the rabbit immediately and place it in a shaded spot with adequate drinking water.
Mange: Caused by mites which burrow into the skin, mange may appear on any part of the body, causing hair loss and inflammation Infected areas should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution before treatment with a miticidal preparation
Mastitis: This is inflammation of the teats, sometimes experienced by does rearing a lifter. It may be relieved by gently massaging the teats several times a day until the inflammation subsides In severe cases the litter should be fostered to another doe, and the condition reported to your vet for advice.
Respiratory Infections: These range from the common cold, through snuffles, to the most serious, pneumonia. Respiratory infections are heralded by labored breathing and nasal discharge. The advice of a veterinarian should be obtained if such symptoms appear.
Ringworm: This is not caused by a worm but is a fungus disease of the skin which causes hair loss. Typical, roundish, raised lesions appear. These should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution, dried, and treated with a tincture of iodine which will soon clear up the disease.
Worm Infections: Rabbits occasionally develop an infestation of intestinal worms. Severe cases will cause anemia and loss of weight. Proprietary vermifuges should be used to the manufacturer’s instructions.
be checked before the animal is purchased. Look at the general appearance of the rabbit. It should have a smooth, sleek coat completely covering the body and not showing any bald patches. The body should be firm and there should be no sharp protuberances of bone felt through the skin, particularly along the spine. The demeanor of the animal should be alert, bright-eyed and interested in its surroundings. Animals which sit hunched up in a corner should be avoided.
The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge and there should be no excessive breathing or panting noises. Look inside the ears for signs of inflammation or canker. If any signs of ill health are noted it is best to refuse purchase, rather than run the risk of losing the animal, or
even infecting existing stock.
Handling rabbits is something which one will have to learn at the outset; adult rabbits which are regularly handled are no problem and some seem to enjoy being cuddled and stroked. A rabbit should never be picked up by the ears, although there is no harm in gripping the ears
gently but firmly to restrain the animal, before sliding the other hand under the body and lifting. Once one has a good grip on the animal, it should preferably be held against one’s chest, in order to make it feel more secure. Some older rabbits, which have been infrequently handled,
may be a little excitable when picked up and should be dealt with by adults rather than children.
It would be naive to imagine that pet rabbits never get any diseases and it is wise to know what to do should one of these occur. One golden rule to remember is ‘when in doubt, consult a veterinarian’; it is better to get expert diagnosis and treatment rather than risk your pet’s life.
The following are some of the diseases and conditions which most frequently occur in pet rabbits, but, it is again stressed that well kept animals are unlikely to succumb.
Bloat: Caused by sudden changes in the food and Particularly from excessive greenfoods which cause strong attacks of wind’, swelling the belly to a drumlike tautness All greenfood should be removed and a little bicarbonate of soda should be given to the rabbit from a spoon Give
improves. only a little dry food and water for a few days until the condition
Canker: This is caused by an infection of parasitic mites inside the ear which appear as scabby patches The scabs should be Swabbed with a lukewarm antiseptic solution, dabbed dry, and treated with a miticidal dust or cream.
Coccidiosis: The symptoms of this disease are emaciation and scouring Fortunately it is rare in hygienically kept animals (it is Spread by infected droppings contaminating the food), but is a dangerous killer if it gets out of hand. Any suspected infection should immediately be reported to a veterinarian who will recommend the best action to take.
Constipation: This can be Caused by inadequate greenfood coupled with too much dryfood, such as grain. In severe cases the condition can be relieved with a dose of Castor oil.
Eye Infections: These usually appear as soft lumps under the skin and are caused by bacteria infecting a cut or wound, which may not have been noticed initially. Gently cutaway the fur around the abscess and bathe it with an antiseptic solution, before squeezing out the puss. Severe or persistant Cases should be referred to a vet.
Eye Infections: Inflammation of the eye, such as conjunctivitis may Occur but this can be quickly cured using antibiotic eye ointments
Fleas and Lice: These, and other external blood sucking parasites, can be quickly eradicated using the special insecticidal dusting Powders obtainable from your pet shop.
Heat Stroke: This may occur accidentally if the hutch is exposed to the sun during the hot weather Ensure that the hutch is shaded during such conditions Cool the rabbit immediately and place it in a shaded spot with adequate drinking water.
Mange: Caused by mites which burrow into the skin, mange may appear on any part of the body, causing hair loss and inflammation Infected areas should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution before treatment with a miticidal preparation
Mastitis: This is inflammation of the teats, sometimes experienced by does rearing a lifter. It may be relieved by gently massaging the teats several times a day until the inflammation subsides In severe cases the litter should be fostered to another doe, and the condition reported to your vet for advice.
Respiratory Infections: These range from the common cold, through snuffles, to the most serious, pneumonia. Respiratory infections are heralded by labored breathing and nasal discharge. The advice of a veterinarian should be obtained if such symptoms appear.
Ringworm: This is not caused by a worm but is a fungus disease of the skin which causes hair loss. Typical, roundish, raised lesions appear. These should be bathed in lukewarm antiseptic solution, dried, and treated with a tincture of iodine which will soon clear up the disease.
Worm Infections: Rabbits occasionally develop an infestation of intestinal worms. Severe cases will cause anemia and loss of weight. Proprietary vermifuges should be used to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
General Care
Domestic animals kept in relatively cramped surroundings require frequent, regular, and thorough cleaning of their quarters. Hygiene, a word which means the science of the prevention and control of disease, should be foremost in the rabbit keeper’s mind. A rabbitwhich receives a balanced diet, fresh water, and is kept in a clean, dry, draft proof hutch, will thrive, whereas one which is neglected will soon succumb to one of the nasty diseases which will be described later.
All rabbits should be handled and groomed as frequently as possible; a good brushing with a soft brush at least once per week will not only keep the fur in prime condition, but also give one the opportunity of inspecting
individual animals for signs of ill health. Rabbits kept in small hutches should also be given the opportunity of regular exercise, they may be allowed (under supervision of course) to run on the lawn or other grassy area, where they will also be able to supplement their diet with fresh grass.
Hutches should be cleaned out completely at least twice per week, and soiled bedding replenished daily. As rabbits are creatures of habit, they will usually urinate and pass droppings in one corner of the run only, so it is easy to clean this out with a small shovel or scraper, before adding fresh floor covering. Sawdust, wood shavings, or peat may be used as a floor covering; these are absorbent and will also act as an insulator to the floor of the hutch during cold weather. The usual floor covering should be added to the rabbit’s sleeping quarters, and a sizeable wad of straw should be added for bedding. The rabbit will soon chew this up and make a cozy nest.
It is useful to have regular days and times for cleaning. The rabbit(s) should be removed from the hutch and placed in a safe area and all bedding and floor covering should be removed. This may either be burnt, or placed on the compost heap (composted rabbit litter makes excellent manure). Equipment required for cleaning includes a scraper (a
wallpaper scraper is ideal) a small shovel, a stiff brush and a bucket in which to transport away the waste material. It is not necessary to wetscrub the hutch each time, but at intervals of say eight weeks it is
advisable to scrub the hutch thoroughly with a solution of household bleach (wear rubber gloves) which will kill off any bacteria or parasites lurking in the woodwork. The hutch should then be washed with clean water, and allowed to thoroughly dry out before the bedding and animals are replaced. As this may take some time, it is advisable to have
temporary, alternative accommodation available for your animals (cardboard cartons are useful).
During cleaning, the hutches should be inspected for damage caused by weathering, or by the rabbits themselves. Any cracks or holes should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent drafts and leaks. The areas around hutches or pens should be kept tidy and free of rubbish or other items which may provide food, refuge or nesting materials for vermin. Dry food should preferably be stored in metal bins, and hay andstraw should be stacked on raised pallets under cover.
All rabbits should be handled and groomed as frequently as possible; a good brushing with a soft brush at least once per week will not only keep the fur in prime condition, but also give one the opportunity of inspecting
individual animals for signs of ill health. Rabbits kept in small hutches should also be given the opportunity of regular exercise, they may be allowed (under supervision of course) to run on the lawn or other grassy area, where they will also be able to supplement their diet with fresh grass.
Hutches should be cleaned out completely at least twice per week, and soiled bedding replenished daily. As rabbits are creatures of habit, they will usually urinate and pass droppings in one corner of the run only, so it is easy to clean this out with a small shovel or scraper, before adding fresh floor covering. Sawdust, wood shavings, or peat may be used as a floor covering; these are absorbent and will also act as an insulator to the floor of the hutch during cold weather. The usual floor covering should be added to the rabbit’s sleeping quarters, and a sizeable wad of straw should be added for bedding. The rabbit will soon chew this up and make a cozy nest.
It is useful to have regular days and times for cleaning. The rabbit(s) should be removed from the hutch and placed in a safe area and all bedding and floor covering should be removed. This may either be burnt, or placed on the compost heap (composted rabbit litter makes excellent manure). Equipment required for cleaning includes a scraper (a
wallpaper scraper is ideal) a small shovel, a stiff brush and a bucket in which to transport away the waste material. It is not necessary to wetscrub the hutch each time, but at intervals of say eight weeks it is
advisable to scrub the hutch thoroughly with a solution of household bleach (wear rubber gloves) which will kill off any bacteria or parasites lurking in the woodwork. The hutch should then be washed with clean water, and allowed to thoroughly dry out before the bedding and animals are replaced. As this may take some time, it is advisable to have
temporary, alternative accommodation available for your animals (cardboard cartons are useful).
During cleaning, the hutches should be inspected for damage caused by weathering, or by the rabbits themselves. Any cracks or holes should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent drafts and leaks. The areas around hutches or pens should be kept tidy and free of rubbish or other items which may provide food, refuge or nesting materials for vermin. Dry food should preferably be stored in metal bins, and hay andstraw should be stacked on raised pallets under cover.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Feeding
To remain in the best of health, all animals require a balanced diet, and rabbits are no exception. Rabbits are what is termed herbivorous, which means that they normally subsist on a diet of plant origin. Wild rabbits feed on grass, other green plants, seeds and roots. The domestic rabbit is given a similar, albeit modified, version of that which the wild rabbits are accustomed to. A balanced diet is one which contains sufficient amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals — plus a constant supply of fresh drinking water which is vital to body functions. Water may be provided in a heavy dish, which the rabbit cannot tip over, but for cleanliness a water bottle is recommended. This consists of a large bottle with a glass or metal tube extending from the stopper. The water filled bottle is suspended from a bracket on the wire front of the hutch, and the drinking tube passed through the mesh so that the rabbit can lap water whenever it is thirsty. The bottle should be cleaned daily as it is refilled otherwise green algae will be evident on the inside as a result of exposure to sunlight.
A balanced diet for rabbits in the form of pellets is available from most pet shops and agricultural merchants. Commonly known as rabbit pellets, they are manufactured from mixtures of ground grain, straw, hay and other materials. Animal protein and calcium may be added in the
form of fish or bonemeal and the correct amounts of vitamins and mineral salts are included. As these pellets contain all the constituents of a balanced diet, they are really all that is required to keep rabbits in the best of health, providing fresh water is constantly available. However,
many fanciers (and perhaps the rabbits) consider such a monotonous diet is boring, and like to add a little more variety to the menu of their pets. Pellets are an excellent staple diet and a fistful per rabbit per day, plus a few extra tit-bits will keep your pets happy. It is interesting to make up a number of menus {or your rabbits in order that there is a slight variance each day. The following ideas are given as guidelines:
MORNING
Menu A
25g (1 oz) crushed oats 1 OOg (4oz) greenfood
bog (4oz)pellets lOOg (4oz) hay
75g (3oz) roots
(carrot, turnip etc)
Menu B
50g (2oz) wheat grain 75g (3oz) pellets
50g (2oz) brown bread 25g (1 oz) roots
1 OOg (4oz) greenfood 1 OOg (4oz) hay
EVENING
Menu A
1 OOg (4oz) greenfood
lOOg (4oz) hay
Menu B
75g (3oz) pellets
25g (1 oz) roots
1 OOg (4oz) hay
The quantities given in the table will be adequate for one medium sized rabbit which is fed morning and evening. Menus A and B constitute meals for Iwo days and it will not take too much imagination to invent others which will give your animals a different meal each day for a week. All
pellets or grain should be placed in earthenware dishes ratherthan those made of plastic, and which the rabbit seems to enjoy tipping over.
It is always advisable to give a little extra hay in case the rabbit feels hungry between meals. A few green twigs from non-poisonous trees (apple, plum, beech or oak for instance) will give the animal something to gnaw at and exercise its teeth, as well as helping to relieve boredom.
There is hardly any limit to the variety of food which can be offered to rabbits, particularly during the summer months, and many offcuts (washed) from domestic vegetables as well as wild greenfoods can be given. Cabbage, carrots, celery, kale, leeks, lettuce, parsnips, peas
(including pods and foliage), and turnips are just a few examples.
The type of wild greens available will, of course, vary from country to country, and it will be wise to consult other rabbit (or even poultry) keepers in your area to see what they are using as well as what to avoid. In Europe, favorite greenfoods include chickweed, clover, dandelion,
groundsel, hedge parsley, knotgrass, plantains and sow thistle, as well as freshly cut grass complete with its seed heads. Care should be taken when gathering wildfood, not to include items which may have been polluted by traffic fumes, or by domestic animals such as dogs or cattle. Also, take care not to mistakenly collect any poisonous plants, the identification of which will have to be researched locally. You are not recommended to feed lawn mower clippings to your petand all greenfood not consumed in a short period should be removed otherwise it will become sour and attract unwanted insects and similar pests.
A balanced diet for rabbits in the form of pellets is available from most pet shops and agricultural merchants. Commonly known as rabbit pellets, they are manufactured from mixtures of ground grain, straw, hay and other materials. Animal protein and calcium may be added in the
form of fish or bonemeal and the correct amounts of vitamins and mineral salts are included. As these pellets contain all the constituents of a balanced diet, they are really all that is required to keep rabbits in the best of health, providing fresh water is constantly available. However,
many fanciers (and perhaps the rabbits) consider such a monotonous diet is boring, and like to add a little more variety to the menu of their pets. Pellets are an excellent staple diet and a fistful per rabbit per day, plus a few extra tit-bits will keep your pets happy. It is interesting to make up a number of menus {or your rabbits in order that there is a slight variance each day. The following ideas are given as guidelines:
MORNING
Menu A
25g (1 oz) crushed oats 1 OOg (4oz) greenfood
bog (4oz)pellets lOOg (4oz) hay
75g (3oz) roots
(carrot, turnip etc)
Menu B
50g (2oz) wheat grain 75g (3oz) pellets
50g (2oz) brown bread 25g (1 oz) roots
1 OOg (4oz) greenfood 1 OOg (4oz) hay
EVENING
Menu A
1 OOg (4oz) greenfood
lOOg (4oz) hay
Menu B
75g (3oz) pellets
25g (1 oz) roots
1 OOg (4oz) hay
The quantities given in the table will be adequate for one medium sized rabbit which is fed morning and evening. Menus A and B constitute meals for Iwo days and it will not take too much imagination to invent others which will give your animals a different meal each day for a week. All
pellets or grain should be placed in earthenware dishes ratherthan those made of plastic, and which the rabbit seems to enjoy tipping over.
It is always advisable to give a little extra hay in case the rabbit feels hungry between meals. A few green twigs from non-poisonous trees (apple, plum, beech or oak for instance) will give the animal something to gnaw at and exercise its teeth, as well as helping to relieve boredom.
There is hardly any limit to the variety of food which can be offered to rabbits, particularly during the summer months, and many offcuts (washed) from domestic vegetables as well as wild greenfoods can be given. Cabbage, carrots, celery, kale, leeks, lettuce, parsnips, peas
(including pods and foliage), and turnips are just a few examples.
The type of wild greens available will, of course, vary from country to country, and it will be wise to consult other rabbit (or even poultry) keepers in your area to see what they are using as well as what to avoid. In Europe, favorite greenfoods include chickweed, clover, dandelion,
groundsel, hedge parsley, knotgrass, plantains and sow thistle, as well as freshly cut grass complete with its seed heads. Care should be taken when gathering wildfood, not to include items which may have been polluted by traffic fumes, or by domestic animals such as dogs or cattle. Also, take care not to mistakenly collect any poisonous plants, the identification of which will have to be researched locally. You are not recommended to feed lawn mower clippings to your petand all greenfood not consumed in a short period should be removed otherwise it will become sour and attract unwanted insects and similar pests.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Colony Pens
If one has the available space, an interesting way of keeping rabbits is on the colony system of allowing one buck to run with several does in a large open air pen, of a type similar to a chicken run. If one has the time and the inclination, quite an elaborate and ornamental structure can be constructed. Shrubs and creepers may be grown around the pen and the weather-proof sleeping quarters can be built to resemble an alpine villa; a Chinese pagoda or any other structure which takes one’s fancy. The house should preferably be set on a concrete base and there should be
separate compartments for the buck and each doe. It is advisable to have spare compartments available, to help prevent squabbling when the does are rearing litters. Care should be taken to ensure that all parts of the house are easily accessible for inspection and cleaning purposes, and
that there are no niches left for the benefit of wild rodents.
Guinea pigs (cavy) make good companions for rabbits. The main pen should have a wire netting wall about 2 metres (6ft) high, which is bent oulwards at the top to prevent predators entering. The base of the wire should be bent inwards for about 60cm (2ft) under the soil to prevent the rabbits from burrowing out. The rabbits will soon destroy the initial grass in the pen, but this may be replaced with sand, which can be replenished as necessary. The size of the pen will depend on the number of rabbits to be kept, but an enclosure some 4m (l3ft) long by 2m (6ft)
wide would be adequate for a buck and eight does.
It can be mentioned that guinea pigs (cavy) make fine companions for rabbits, though one should not mix the large breeds with small guinea pigs in restricted accommodation. In colony pens, one should also provide small ‘bolt holes’ for cavies to retreat to whenever they feel threatened — for example by cats. The diet of the guinea pig is the same as that of the rabbit.
separate compartments for the buck and each doe. It is advisable to have spare compartments available, to help prevent squabbling when the does are rearing litters. Care should be taken to ensure that all parts of the house are easily accessible for inspection and cleaning purposes, and
that there are no niches left for the benefit of wild rodents.
Guinea pigs (cavy) make good companions for rabbits. The main pen should have a wire netting wall about 2 metres (6ft) high, which is bent oulwards at the top to prevent predators entering. The base of the wire should be bent inwards for about 60cm (2ft) under the soil to prevent the rabbits from burrowing out. The rabbits will soon destroy the initial grass in the pen, but this may be replaced with sand, which can be replenished as necessary. The size of the pen will depend on the number of rabbits to be kept, but an enclosure some 4m (l3ft) long by 2m (6ft)
wide would be adequate for a buck and eight does.
It can be mentioned that guinea pigs (cavy) make fine companions for rabbits, though one should not mix the large breeds with small guinea pigs in restricted accommodation. In colony pens, one should also provide small ‘bolt holes’ for cavies to retreat to whenever they feel threatened — for example by cats. The diet of the guinea pig is the same as that of the rabbit.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Morant Pens
The Morant pen is one which will allow your rabbits to graze almost naturally, give them adequate exercise, and protect them at the same time. Invented by Major G Morant, the pen consists basically of a triangular arc made from strong wooden battens covered with wire
netting along two thirds of its length, the remaining third consisting of a covered house with a platform floor. The whole of the base is also covered with wire netting so that the rabbits can graze from the lawn, or other grassy patch, without being able to burrow out. Handles are fixed
to each end of the pen so that it may be moved to fresh grazing land at regular intervals. The size of the pen will depend on the number of rabbits to be kept in it, but one about 2 metres (6ft) long by 1 metre (3ft) wide will be adequate for about six average sized rabbits.
netting along two thirds of its length, the remaining third consisting of a covered house with a platform floor. The whole of the base is also covered with wire netting so that the rabbits can graze from the lawn, or other grassy patch, without being able to burrow out. Handles are fixed
to each end of the pen so that it may be moved to fresh grazing land at regular intervals. The size of the pen will depend on the number of rabbits to be kept in it, but one about 2 metres (6ft) long by 1 metre (3ft) wide will be adequate for about six average sized rabbits.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Breeding Hutches
The breeding hutch can be similar in design to that described for a single rabbit hutch, but a little larger and with a few modifications. A suitable size for an average doe to rear her litter would be 120cm (48in) long by 50cm (2Oin) deep and 55cm (22in) high (with a sloping roof if the hutch is
not kept under shelter). Again, about one third of the hutch should be used for nesting quarters and a removable safely plank about 10cm (4in) wide is fixed at the bottom of this, just inside the inspection door; this is to stop bedding, and young rabbits, from falling out when the door is
opened. A rest platform can be fitted inside the nest chamber about 20cm (8in) from the floor to allow the suckling doe to rest occasionallyfrom her over attentive youngsters. For an average sized doe, a platform 25cm (lOin) long by 15cm (6in) wide will be adequate.
not kept under shelter). Again, about one third of the hutch should be used for nesting quarters and a removable safely plank about 10cm (4in) wide is fixed at the bottom of this, just inside the inspection door; this is to stop bedding, and young rabbits, from falling out when the door is
opened. A rest platform can be fitted inside the nest chamber about 20cm (8in) from the floor to allow the suckling doe to rest occasionallyfrom her over attentive youngsters. For an average sized doe, a platform 25cm (lOin) long by 15cm (6in) wide will be adequate.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Rabbit Hutches
The first question to be asked before acquiring any pet is: ‘where are we going to accommodate it?’ Rabbits are not normally suitable to be kept in the house as they cannot be trained to control their droppings. They are normally kept in rabbit hutches, less frequently in outdoor pens, and one should assess the amount of space available before deciding on the type of accommodation to be used.
For the single pet rabbit, a small hutch is adequate and this can be placed in a shed or outhouse. The advantages of keeping hutches under cover are many, and providing the building is reasonably well-lit, well ventilated and draft proof, the hutches need not necessarily be as
substantial and expensive as those which would be required in the open. Under cover, rabbits may breed at all times of the year and it is also more pleasant for the keeper to be able to clean out his pets when the weather outside is bad. In spite of the fact that rabbit hutches are best kept under cover if a suitaHe building is available, it is also quite possible to keep the hutch outside. Rabbits are hardy animals and are quite capable of withstanding the hardest of temperate winters, providing they have a damp and draft proof hutch, adequate bedding, and a balanced diet.
A hutch kept outside should preferably be sited in a sheltered position; in the northern hemisphere, for example, it would be advisable to have it backing onto a south facing wall, thus sheltering it from the unpleasant north winds and also gaining maximum benefit from the winter sunshine. Windbreaks, in the form of solid fences or bushy shrubs, can also be placed in strategic positions around the hutch. The hutch itself should preferably be constructed of whole sheets of plywood or tongue and groove boarding, the latter being more attractive, but, whatever is used,
the accent should be on draft proofing. The hutch should be divided into two compartments; a sleeping compartment with a close fitting solid access door, and a run which will have a door consisting of wire mesh mounted on a batten framework. For an average sized rabbit, the hutch
should be about 1 metre (3ft) long by 45cm (1 8in) wide. The height at the front should be about 50cm (2Oin) and 45cm (1 8in) at the rear, thus allowing a 5cm (2in) slope for rainwater to run off. The partition separating the sleeping quarters from the run should be fixed about one
third of the way along the length of the hutch. The bolt hole, into which the rabbit enters its den, will depend on the size of the animal, but an average is 15cm (6in) square. The bolt hole should be positioned at the back wall of the hutch, to allow maximum protection from the weather.
The roof of the hutch should be covered with a good qualify, waterproof roofing felt, which can be attached using adhesive and a number of battens crossing the roof from front to rear. To protect the hutch at night and during inclement weather conditions, a sheet of heavy grade plastic
or polythene can be hung in front of the hutch and fixed to a hook at each end. If a thin batten of wood is attached to the bottom of this sheet, it becomes a simple matter to roll it up when not in use and clip it to brackets on the hutch roof.
Most good pet shops and garden centers supply ready made rabbit hutches, which vary in qualily and price, but the home handyperson should be able to construct a strong, serviceable hutch without too much trouble. The advantage of home construction is that one can design a hutch to suit
one’s own requirements or to fit into a certain area, and it is much more satisfying to proudly exhibit pets in accommodation which has been created by its owner.
For the single pet rabbit, a small hutch is adequate and this can be placed in a shed or outhouse. The advantages of keeping hutches under cover are many, and providing the building is reasonably well-lit, well ventilated and draft proof, the hutches need not necessarily be as
substantial and expensive as those which would be required in the open. Under cover, rabbits may breed at all times of the year and it is also more pleasant for the keeper to be able to clean out his pets when the weather outside is bad. In spite of the fact that rabbit hutches are best kept under cover if a suitaHe building is available, it is also quite possible to keep the hutch outside. Rabbits are hardy animals and are quite capable of withstanding the hardest of temperate winters, providing they have a damp and draft proof hutch, adequate bedding, and a balanced diet.
A hutch kept outside should preferably be sited in a sheltered position; in the northern hemisphere, for example, it would be advisable to have it backing onto a south facing wall, thus sheltering it from the unpleasant north winds and also gaining maximum benefit from the winter sunshine. Windbreaks, in the form of solid fences or bushy shrubs, can also be placed in strategic positions around the hutch. The hutch itself should preferably be constructed of whole sheets of plywood or tongue and groove boarding, the latter being more attractive, but, whatever is used,
the accent should be on draft proofing. The hutch should be divided into two compartments; a sleeping compartment with a close fitting solid access door, and a run which will have a door consisting of wire mesh mounted on a batten framework. For an average sized rabbit, the hutch
should be about 1 metre (3ft) long by 45cm (1 8in) wide. The height at the front should be about 50cm (2Oin) and 45cm (1 8in) at the rear, thus allowing a 5cm (2in) slope for rainwater to run off. The partition separating the sleeping quarters from the run should be fixed about one
third of the way along the length of the hutch. The bolt hole, into which the rabbit enters its den, will depend on the size of the animal, but an average is 15cm (6in) square. The bolt hole should be positioned at the back wall of the hutch, to allow maximum protection from the weather.
The roof of the hutch should be covered with a good qualify, waterproof roofing felt, which can be attached using adhesive and a number of battens crossing the roof from front to rear. To protect the hutch at night and during inclement weather conditions, a sheet of heavy grade plastic
or polythene can be hung in front of the hutch and fixed to a hook at each end. If a thin batten of wood is attached to the bottom of this sheet, it becomes a simple matter to roll it up when not in use and clip it to brackets on the hutch roof.
Most good pet shops and garden centers supply ready made rabbit hutches, which vary in qualily and price, but the home handyperson should be able to construct a strong, serviceable hutch without too much trouble. The advantage of home construction is that one can design a hutch to suit
one’s own requirements or to fit into a certain area, and it is much more satisfying to proudly exhibit pets in accommodation which has been created by its owner.
Introduction To Rabbits
Rabbits are probably the next most popular mammalian pets to dogs and cats. Contrary to popular belief, they are not rodents but belong to the order Lagomorpha which includes several different species of rabbit and hare, as well as the pikas which are short eared members of the order. Showing certain similarities with the rodents, such as the ever growing chisel-like incisor teeth, the lagomorphs are considered by zoologists to be sufficiently different to be classed in a separate order.
In spite of the numbers of wild species of rabbit, the one which has become our much loved domesticated pet was developed from the wild European type Oiyctologus cuniculus, which is believed to have originated on the Iberian Peninsula. The wild rabbit is a dull, grayish
brown in color and, when adult, may weigh up to 2kg (41/2lb). In the matter of size, shape, color and temperament it is far removed from the many varieties of domestic rabbits seen today. The wild rabbit was always of economic importance to people wherever it lived, being an excellent source of fresh protein, and early man began to keep them in semi-captivity by creating warrens in enclosed areas. Due to the prolific breeding of the animals and the ease with which they could be kept, rabbit meat became a staple diet to country people wherever rabbits were found.
It is generally attributed to the Romans that rabbits were transported to parts of Europe other than the Mediterranean lands, and escapes from warrens led them to becoming feral in most parts of the continent. At the same time, domestic stock was being selectively bred in order to increase size and change the temperament. Initially, rabbits were bed exclusively for economic purposes; either for meat, or for pelts which made excellent fur coats. In most recent times, varieties such as the chinchilla have been specifically developed for the fur trade, and the angora specifically for the excellent wool it produces. During the latter half of the last century, people began to view rabbits in a different light and a band of fanciers appeared who began to breed rabbits for aesthetic and exhibition purposes, rather than supplying butchers and furriers.
Thus came the beginnings of the pet rabbit. As pets, rabbits are particularly suitable for children; they are easy to keep — providing a few basic rules are observed, the varieties come in various sizes and colors to suit every taste, and they are normally docile and harmless. These delightful animals are not expensive to obtain, to feed or to accommodate and are ideal to promote the ‘caring’ instinct in children. That is not to say, however, that they are unsuitable for adults; many people get a great deal of pleasure from keeping, breeding and exhibiting. This blog is designed to introduce the prospective rabbit keeper, of any age, to the pleasures of keeping these animals, and it is hoped will lead them to many years of gratification and amusement which can be derived from such a hobby.
In spite of the numbers of wild species of rabbit, the one which has become our much loved domesticated pet was developed from the wild European type Oiyctologus cuniculus, which is believed to have originated on the Iberian Peninsula. The wild rabbit is a dull, grayish
brown in color and, when adult, may weigh up to 2kg (41/2lb). In the matter of size, shape, color and temperament it is far removed from the many varieties of domestic rabbits seen today. The wild rabbit was always of economic importance to people wherever it lived, being an excellent source of fresh protein, and early man began to keep them in semi-captivity by creating warrens in enclosed areas. Due to the prolific breeding of the animals and the ease with which they could be kept, rabbit meat became a staple diet to country people wherever rabbits were found.
It is generally attributed to the Romans that rabbits were transported to parts of Europe other than the Mediterranean lands, and escapes from warrens led them to becoming feral in most parts of the continent. At the same time, domestic stock was being selectively bred in order to increase size and change the temperament. Initially, rabbits were bed exclusively for economic purposes; either for meat, or for pelts which made excellent fur coats. In most recent times, varieties such as the chinchilla have been specifically developed for the fur trade, and the angora specifically for the excellent wool it produces. During the latter half of the last century, people began to view rabbits in a different light and a band of fanciers appeared who began to breed rabbits for aesthetic and exhibition purposes, rather than supplying butchers and furriers.
Thus came the beginnings of the pet rabbit. As pets, rabbits are particularly suitable for children; they are easy to keep — providing a few basic rules are observed, the varieties come in various sizes and colors to suit every taste, and they are normally docile and harmless. These delightful animals are not expensive to obtain, to feed or to accommodate and are ideal to promote the ‘caring’ instinct in children. That is not to say, however, that they are unsuitable for adults; many people get a great deal of pleasure from keeping, breeding and exhibiting. This blog is designed to introduce the prospective rabbit keeper, of any age, to the pleasures of keeping these animals, and it is hoped will lead them to many years of gratification and amusement which can be derived from such a hobby.
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